Considerations For Sleeve Alterations
One of our students recently found a great blouse; bought it, and brought it home. Then she realized the blouse was long sleeved, and she had never altered a blouse before. She set the blouse on her cutting table, and thought to herself. This is the the perfect blouse. I love it. If I try to shorten the sleeves, I could ruin it.
Long sleeves are great for formal occasions and during the cold weather, but when it gets hot long sleeves can be miserable. One solution is to shorten the sleeves. In fact, I suppose you could shorten all the shirt sleeves in May and buy a whole new collection of long sleeved shirts in the Fall. That way you have plenty of short sleeve shirts plus new shirts too.
Why would you alter a perfectly good blouse or shirt? Why would you cut off a perfectly good sleeve? There are many possible needs: comfort, style, repair, just want to. The more apt question is how do you alter a sleeve?
A sleeve can be changed in many ways. You can vary the length significantly from sleeveless to short sleeve to three quarter sleeve length. You have many options to enhance the sleeve with lace, frills, or cuffs. It is a project that you can have real confidence doing if you follow some very basic steps.
Initially, identify how long you want the sleeve to be. Since you have many options, you must decide. If it is helpful compare other shirts you have until you get a good idea what you really want.
Second, Measure both under- arm seam and at the shoulder. Add 1 ” to this measurement, and mark the fabric with a fabric marker.
Next, cut from one measurement to the other. This should be a straight even cut.
Fourth, Since the sleeve shape tapers, you will need to take out the stitching almost to the underarm seam. Reshape the under arm (sleeve). Sew a seam on the inside of the sleeve to hold that taper in place.
The inch and a half of fabric to be used for the hem, must be cut and sewn with an angle opposite to accommodate the taper so that when it is folded under it will not bind.
Finally, finish the sleeve hem. Here you have several choices depending on the general style of the shirt. You may install a cuff or not. You may finish with top stitching or blind hem. In either case, the procedure is much the same. Fold the edge of the sleeve under half an inch and press it. Fold it under again one inch and press. Finally, sew the seam as decided.
If you have a professional blind hem stitching machine, you will get the best results. Otherwise, your sewing machine probably came with a blind hem foot. If you do not have a blind hem foot, you can get one at your local sewing machine dealers store. It is also possible to hand stitch the seam if necessary.
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