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Gothic fashion is a clothing style worn by members of the Goth subculture; a dark, sometimes morbid, eroticized fashion and style of dress.[1] Typical Gothic fashion includes black dyed hair and black clothes.[1] Both male and female goths sometimes wear dark eyeliner and dark fingernails. Styles are often borrowed from the Elizabethans and Victorians. BDSM imagery and paraphernalia are also common.[1] Some haute couture designers, particularly Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, have been associated with the goth aesthetic.

One female role model is Theda Bara, the 1910s femme fatale known for her dark eyeshadow.[8][9] Musidora, Bela Lugosi,[10] Bettie Page, Morticia Addams,[9] Nico, David Bowie,[1] Alice Cooper,[1] Dave Vanian,[11] Robert Smith[12] is also a style icon. Siouxsie Sioux was particularly influential on the dress style of the Gothic rock scene; Paul Morley of NME described Siouxsie & the Banshees’s 1980 gig at Futurama: “[Siouxsie was] modeling her newest outfit, the one that will influence how all the girls dress over the next few months. About half the girls at Leeds had used Sioux as a basis for their appearance, hair to ankle.”

In 1977, Karl Lagerfeld hosted the Soire Moratoire Noire party, specifying “tragique exige absolument noire” (totally black tragic dress required).[14] The event included elements associated with leatherman style.[14]

Goth fashion has a reciprocal relationship with the fashion world. In the later part of the first decade of the twenty-first century, designers such as Alexander McQueen,[2][15][16] Rick Owens,[16] Gareth Pugh, Rodarte, John Galliano,[2][15][16] Olivier Theyskens,[16][17] and Yohji Yamamoto[16] brought elements of goth to runways.[2] This was described as “Haute Goth” by Cintra Wilson in the New York Times.[2] Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Christian Lacroix have also been associated with a gothic style.[15] In Spring 2004, Riccardo Tisci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs and Stefano Pilati dressed their models as “glamorous ghouls dressed in form-fitting suits and coal-tinted cocktail dresses”.[17] Swedish designer Helena Horstedt and jewelry artist Hanna Hedman also practice a goth aesthetic.

* Christoph Grunenberg, “Unsolved Mysteries: Gothic Tales from Frankenstein to the Hair Eating Doll”, Gothic, Boston: MIT Press, 1997. * James Hannaham, “Bela Lugosi’s Dead and I Don’t Feel So Good Either: Goth and the Glorification of Suffering in Rock Music”, Gothic, Boston: MIT Press, 1997. * Ted Polhemus, Streetstyle: From Sidewalk to Catwalk, London: Thames and Hudson, 1994. * Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park, Gothic: Dark Glamour, Yale University Press and the Fashion Institute of Technology New York, 2008.

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